An obvious question, but more legitimate than ever given that we are at the final stages of Masterchef Italy 13why is she at the second restaurant, and the Vibe restaurant in Milan Has it already found a place in gastronomic guides? «I don’t follow trends and I don’t live on social media: my job is to be a cook» he replies Valerio Braschimoving the ubiquitous baseball cap that accompanies him everywhere.

Il post reality

One aspect is evident: among those you have followed in the talent most loved by Italians – let’s talk about the finalists – few have had any level of experience (interrupted), very few have managed or opened a place (then closed). Many cook on social media, others are consultants, still others organize experiences at home. More than dignified for goodness sake, but essentially all of them have fallen off the radar of high-end cuisine. Braschi, from Santarcangelo in Romagna, born in 1997, is the only one who has earned the covers not for any external merit but for his ability in the kitchen. In 2021 he was nominated «Young chef 2021» from Le guide de l’Espresso and his restaurant was included in the Michelin guide and in that of Red shrimp.

After the victory (“which sped up my time, but didn’t change my life”), as soon as I came of age Braschi began to wander the world. Particularly in the East. It is no coincidence that the restaurant’s only tasting is called Diary of a traveler boy. «I got anxious when I did show cooking, as happens with many other finalists: very profitable and they helped me travel, but I had been thinking about being a chef ever since I studied at high school». Then, the return to Italy: first a Roma where the restaurant opened in 2019 1978then to Milano (“which was actually the first choice, the experience in the capital was fundamental, but here the public is more open-minded towards food”) with the ristorante Vibe whose name evokes informal and instagrammable atmospheres. She opened it with Edoardo Maggiori, another successful under 30, owner of Filetteria Italiana.

How to eat at Vibe

Vibe is located in via Ghisleri 1, a busy street in the Solari area. But beyond the appearance of a colorful place with unusual tones (fuchsia, silver and white dominate) and graffiti, with only 25 seats, there is the substance of a chef who has ideas, a desire to have fun and entertain, correct ambitions to a 26 year old. Leads a small team: the sous chef (and pastry chef) Francesco Di Lallo, former workmate of the chef at 1978 in Rome and a commis in the kitchen. Two people in the room and the sommelier Marco Beretta manage a cellar with a good presence of natural wines. The dishes? Not trivial, actually the result of persistent contamination: very Japan (you can see it from the many broths), a little bit of Thailand, Spain, India e Northern Europe. If it is true that the most interesting dishes have no borders (Red prawn, tom yam and cardoncelli; Glacier 51 and Rubia Gallega; Melted ice cream with sansho pepper, smoked herring caviar and bergamot gel), you always arrive at a good balance and an all-Italian delicacy. Sanctioned from the inevitable tortellinooriginal in its filling and dedicated to grandmothers, placed on a Parmesan fondue.

Masterchef seen by one of Masterchef

How is Masterchef seen by an established chef and former contestant? «He has become more of a reality show than a talent show, but people want this and therefore they are right. The approach of those who participate has not changed: they think that being there means being a professional chef» replies Braschi. Well, right to dream. «Of course, but it’s one thing to prepare a “cool” dish for three judges, perhaps starting from a 1kg fillet and not worrying about the waste. Another is to repeat the recipe every day, for many people who pay and thinking about the food cost. Almost all the competitors play with the spherical but don’t know the difference between a bottom and a demi-glace: it’s as if in basketball someone knows how to shoot threes but you dribble on your feet.” READ FULL STORY HERE>>>CLICK HERE TO CONTINUE READING>>>

Speaking of judges, what are the relationships after the talent show? «I only have contact with Cracco, who is very kind: I talk to him every now and then and he always gives me good advice». Who knows what the Master would think when he saw that a pre-dessert of those who were often treated badly in the program was a Viagra-like pill made up of milk chocolate, yuzu and macha powder while in the toilet there was the Sexy Vibe, a gelatinous candy sealed in a plastic case. Basically a condom.

Aim high

The most varied coffees, strictly made with the mocha, bring the seriousness back to Vibe. Overall rating of the experience? A 7 and a half, convinced and not encouraging. We do not hide a great curiosity for the near (and distant) future of Braschi, an undoubted talent to whom it is right to give a few years to make a precise judgement. Maybe the Michelin Star will arrive, which remains the objective of every chef behind the inevitable declaration of intent («We aim high: the main objective is not prizes and recognition but making customers happy, ensuring that the room is always full, create the waiting list” says Valerio), maybe not and it won’t change his life. For sure, he is on the ball in the meantime, with the right approach and a good hand. But above all, seeing two Masterchef contestants in the room serving customers (well, for goodness sake) instead of cooking confirms that one in a hundred makes it.

2024-02-16 06:24:32
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